Discussion:
Tec Twilight zone reset problem
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T***@aol.com
2007-04-14 02:54:26 UTC
Permalink
I have aTwilight Zone that is driving me crazy. It resets when the
flippers are hit or when other coils are on. Bumpers ball shooter
coil. I have changed the cpu and the power driver board and the main
transformer. I have 13 volts and 8.8 volts ac coming in to the power
driver board. I have 19.1 volts dc on the 20 volt line 4.9 on the 5
volt line and 12.6 volts on the 12 volt line. There is 115 ac at the
outlet.I have the same problem with just about all wires disconected
from the power drive board. I am out of ideas. Any help would be
great. The power driver and cpu worked great in another machine.
Thanks Ted
Lloyd Olson
2007-04-14 03:00:55 UTC
Permalink
The driver board worked great in another machine, but TZ uses more power
than most machines, don't rule out driver board problems. LTG :)
Post by T***@aol.com
I have aTwilight Zone that is driving me crazy. It resets when the
flippers are hit or when other coils are on. Bumpers ball shooter
coil. I have changed the cpu and the power driver board and the main
transformer. I have 13 volts and 8.8 volts ac coming in to the power
driver board. I have 19.1 volts dc on the 20 volt line 4.9 on the 5
volt line and 12.6 volts on the 12 volt line. There is 115 ac at the
outlet.I have the same problem with just about all wires disconected
from the power drive board. I am out of ideas. Any help would be
great. The power driver and cpu worked great in another machine.
Thanks Ted
T***@aol.com
2007-04-14 04:08:13 UTC
Permalink
Yea I thought about that. Just setting off a pop bumper by hand or the
ball launch coil with nothing else going on caused a reset. I also
replace the 5 volt and 20 volt rectifiers and the 4 caps.
Lloyd Olson
2007-04-14 04:16:35 UTC
Permalink
Be sure all connectors are tight and clean, reseat if possible. From the
outlet, to the game, into the game, from right inside the game to the
transformer, from the transformer to the driver board. LTG :)
Post by T***@aol.com
Yea I thought about that. Just setting off a pop bumper by hand or the
ball launch coil with nothing else going on caused a reset. I also
replace the 5 volt and 20 volt rectifiers and the 4 caps.
c***@Team-EM.com
2007-04-14 04:36:02 UTC
Permalink
When you replaced those caps, are you sure you didn't pull out the
through hole trace on any of them. The original snap-caps are kind of
a booger to get out safely. Check the caps that you pulled. If any of
them have sort of a rust colored donut on the legs, you've pulled a
through-hole. Not meant to be insulting. I've pulled a couple of them
out myself. Damn maddening.

How about the connectors on the top right side of the power driver
board? Repinned?

Have you worked thru ALL of the possibilities that Clay outlines in
his guide at www.marvin3m.com?

Does this reset happen soon after the game is turned on, or does the
problem go away if you let the game powered up for a while (20 minutes
lets say) and then play it?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31, TeamEM
www.Team-EM.com
Post by T***@aol.com
Yea I thought about that. Just setting off a pop bumper by hand or the
ball launch coil with nothing else going on caused a reset. I also
replace the 5 volt and 20 volt rectifiers and the 4 caps.
T***@aol.com
2007-04-14 04:56:08 UTC
Permalink
I ran jumper wires on the original driver board when I replaced the
bridge from the top to the bottom. I have put a working driver into
this game and took the board from TZ and place it in a working game
both the original TZ board worked in a different game and the other
board showed the same problem in the TZ game. Problem is there right
away and dosent change. It happens as soon as you hit a flipper pop
bumper or other coils with nothing else going on in machine. If I hit
a flipper durring test mode it will reset. My last thought would be
the main fuse and power box connetions. Thanks Ted
Lloyd Olson
2007-04-14 05:02:11 UTC
Permalink
Don't rule out the line filter. LTG :)
Post by T***@aol.com
I ran jumper wires on the original driver board when I replaced the
bridge from the top to the bottom. I have put a working driver into
this game and took the board from TZ and place it in a working game
both the original TZ board worked in a different game and the other
board showed the same problem in the TZ game. Problem is there right
away and dosent change. It happens as soon as you hit a flipper pop
bumper or other coils with nothing else going on in machine. If I hit
a flipper durring test mode it will reset. My last thought would be
the main fuse and power box connetions. Thanks Ted
hobs
2007-04-14 08:41:00 UTC
Permalink
At 115 volts isnt the wall voltage marginal. It could be getting
pulled down while playing. All my outlets usually read between 117 and
120 in the winter During hot summer months they drop to 113 and 115
and I also get some resets.
Hobbs
b***@aracamerch.com
2007-04-14 11:55:22 UTC
Permalink
My TZ was resetting a few days ago. I noticed that the previous owner
had done something funky to the plug where 5V and 12V come into the
power driver. I replaced with new connector and the problem was
solved. I probably should have replaced the pins as well, but I just
wanted to get it working before I had to leave for London. I know
everyone has said to check all connectors, but it couldn't hurt to
just replace this (took me about 10 minutes- much quicker than
replacing those pesky bridges :)
T***@aol.com
2007-04-14 12:20:51 UTC
Permalink
I also replaced the connector for the 9 and 13 ac in and replaced the
pins on the cpu. Thanks Ted
Eric A.
2007-04-14 12:36:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by T***@aol.com
I also replaced the connector for the 9 and 13 ac in and replaced the
pins on the cpu. Thanks Ted
Check the connector on the left side of the board. The one that goes
out to the cpu.

Also unplug the 12volt going out to the optos to isolate that as a
problem.

Also, check the transformer plug rejumpering. Is this a reimport? If
so I had a problem on my transformer that the pin i replaced the
jumper with was too small and would not stay in the molex housing for
the transformer very well.

What else......hmmmmmm.think think
think...........ahhhhhhhhhhhh..............

ribbon cable........reseat this on the left side of the driver going
to the cpu or try another from another game.

Did you try another Eprom?




Eric A.
313-268-0541
martin
2007-04-14 17:45:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by Eric A.
Post by T***@aol.com
I also replaced the connector for the 9 and 13 ac in and replaced the
pins on the cpu. Thanks Ted
Check the connector on the left side of the board. The one that goes
out to the cpu.
Also unplug the 12volt going out to the optos to isolate that as a
problem.
Also, check the transformer plug rejumpering. Is this a reimport? If
so I had a problem on my transformer that the pin i replaced the
jumper with was too small and would not stay in the molex housing for
the transformer very well.
What else......hmmmmmm.think think
think...........ahhhhhhhhhhhh..............
ribbon cable........reseat this on the left side of the driver going
to the cpu or try another from another game.
Did you try another Eprom?
Eric A.
313-268-0541
One possibility is that something mechanical is going on. If you use
a
soft-faced hammer and thump around a bit inside the backbox you could
test that out. You are trying to make a noise a bit softer than a
knocker.

Next, I presume that it does not reset with the door open - bumper
wafers, flipper buttons and so on.


The third place for trouble is on the power side of the transformer.
A
poor connection there will cause the symptom that you are having.
That
includes:

- Molex connector into the transformer
- Molex connectors around line jumpering
- Stuff in power box (varistor in particular, jumper over it to test)
- Power connector box (unusual)
- Power cable
- Wall socket

Your system sounds really sensitive, I'd go for the molex or varistors.
w***@aol.com
2007-04-15 00:09:47 UTC
Permalink
I am having same problem... sort of narrowed mine down to it happening
when both flipper buttons pressed at same time... any ideas ???
Thanks, Joe
Lloyd Olson
2007-04-15 00:12:46 UTC
Permalink
Weak BR2, weak traces between BR2 and it's capacitor. LTG :)
Post by w***@aol.com
I am having same problem... sort of narrowed mine down to it happening
when both flipper buttons pressed at same time... any ideas ???
Thanks, Joe
c***@Team-EM.com
2007-04-15 02:16:55 UTC
Permalink
Joe,
LTG has identified one of the most common problems.
Read up here: http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/
There are a whole bunch of possible reasons for the reset problem.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31, TeamEM
Post by w***@aol.com
I am having same problem... sort of narrowed mine down to it happening
when both flipper buttons pressed at same time... any ideas ???
Thanks, Joe
martin
2007-04-14 17:40:28 UTC
Permalink
Post by T***@aol.com
I also replaced the connector for the 9 and 13 ac in and replaced the
pins on the cpu. Thanks Ted
One possibility is that something mechanical is going on. If you use a
soft-faced hammer and thump around a bit inside the backbox you could
test that out. You are trying to make a noise a bit softer than a
knocker.

Next, I presume that it does not reset with the door open - bumper
wafers, flipper buttons and so on.

The third place for trouble is on the power side of the transformer. A
poor connection there will cause the symptom that you are having. That
includes:
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