TECH: No Magents or Snagger on my Jurassic Park Lost World

[Wolfpack]

I just picked up a JP Lost World and the two magnets (orbit and
snagger) are not working, as well as the snagger itself. Everything
else works perfect and there are no error codes when the game starts
up. I replaced the two fuses associated with each magent (which
looked fine) and that had no effect. I traced the wires and didn't
see any issues there either.

I ran a test in the diagnostic menu for each magent and the snagger,
but I get no response in any test. All of the other solenoid tests
work fine.

If I turn on the game without the balls installed, the game goes
through it's solenoid cycle to try and free up any captured balls.
The snagger motor actually executes during this test and the snagger
arm extends and goes back to it's home position. So, the motor on the
snagger seems to be fine.

I checked the boards and there are no blown fuses and no sign of any
corrosion or component damage.

The magents and snagger appear to be on separe wiring connections, so
I'm not quite sure why all three fail to execute in the diagnostic
menu.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

[Lloyd Olson]

Get your manual out, see where they get power from the power supply board,
and then see if you have power going out.

Besides checking fuses, check for crappy fuse holders too. LTG :)

Post by Wolfpack
I just picked up a JP Lost World and the two magnets (orbit and
snagger) are not working, as well as the snagger itself. Everything
else works perfect and there are no error codes when the game starts
up. I replaced the two fuses associated with each magent (which
looked fine) and that had no effect. I traced the wires and didn't
see any issues there either.
I ran a test in the diagnostic menu for each magent and the snagger,
but I get no response in any test. All of the other solenoid tests
work fine.
If I turn on the game without the balls installed, the game goes
through it's solenoid cycle to try and free up any captured balls.
The snagger motor actually executes during this test and the snagger
arm extends and goes back to it's home position. So, the motor on the
snagger seems to be fine.
I checked the boards and there are no blown fuses and no sign of any
corrosion or component damage.
The magents and snagger appear to be on separe wiring connections, so
I'm not quite sure why all three fail to execute in the diagnostic
menu.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks in advance!

[Wolfpack]

Post by Lloyd Olson
Get your manual out, see where they get power from the power supply board,
and then see if you have power going out.
Besides checking fuses, check for crappy fuse holders too. LTG :)

I don't have a manual yet. I ordered one, but I haven't been able to
find a soft copy anywhere. I'm not sure why the manuals for Stern and
Sega games aren't available for download anywhere. I assume it's
because Sega or Stern forbid it?

I checked the pinrepair.com site, but it only covers DE/Sega pins up
to 1995. I looked at that repair section anyway and found a section
on faulty relay boards. I believe the snagger is controlled through
this relay board, but I'm not sure about the magnets. I'm going to
check the power coming from the board and if that looks good, then it
may be the relay board.

Is there any site out there that specializes in 1996+Sega/Stern pin
repair?

Thanks

[orbaddict]

wow I dislike this game....
These are 2 separate but related problems. First get the magnets
working.
The snagger will not work without the magnets working, nor a bad drop
target switch. Check fuse 21 in the backbox, "Colis/Magnets fuse"
usually a 3a sb, you can up it to a 4a sb, but no higher. out of all
the times I had a magnet failure on this game it was due to the fuse
being blown; I have yet to change out a P20N10L transistor for either
magnet on this game... I don't remember if there's also magnets under
the playfield too for each magnet, so take a look there too.
And just to state the obvious, You had the coin door closed while
testing these too, right? No coils will work with the door open unless
the High Voltage Interlock Switch is pulled out.
So now the magnets work, check the drop target in front of the
snagger. Is the diode on the switch there and soldered firmly on at
both ends? Since this assembly gets a lot of abuse & was located next
to a vibrating assembly, the diode commonly cracks & breaks off. You
need to remove the drop target assembly to see the switch, which means
a 1/4" magnetic nut driver & standing on your head. Once this is
repaired then you have to work on the snagger. This assembly was over-
engineered & under-assembled. There's a chain & a belt in the middle
of the arm that causes the snagger magnet to flip down to grab the
ball. After moving countless times the pully on the gear loosens &
needs to be tightened with a very small allan wrench. to gain access
to that you have to remove the cover on the back of the arm. This is a
trial & error adjustment so you will be working on this thing several
times, so wait until you get it right before reassembling the unit.
Good luck! you'll need it.
Gavin Miller
Gavin's Game Service, inc.
Schaumburg, IL 60193

[Wolfpack]

Post by orbaddict
wow I dislike this game....
These are 2 separate but related problems. First get the magnets
working.
The snagger will not work without the magnets working, nor a bad drop
target switch. Check fuse 21 in the backbox, "Colis/Magnets fuse"
usually a 3a sb, you can up it to a 4a sb, but no higher. out of all
the times I had a magnet failure on this game it was due to the fuse
being blown; I have yet to change out a P20N10L transistor for either
magnet on this game... I don't remember if there's also magnets under
the playfield too for each magnet, so take a look there too.
And just to state the obvious, You had the coin door closed while
testing these too, right? No coils will work with the door open unless
the High Voltage Interlock Switch is pulled out.
So now the magnets work, check the drop target in front of the
snagger. Is the diode on the switch there and soldered firmly on at
both ends? Since this assembly gets a lot of abuse & was located next
to a vibrating assembly, the diode commonly cracks & breaks off. You
need to remove the drop target assembly to see the switch, which means
a 1/4" magnetic nut driver & standing on your head. Once this is
repaired then you have to work on the snagger. This assembly was over-
engineered & under-assembled. There's a chain & a belt in the middle
of the arm that causes the snagger magnet to flip down to grab the
ball. After moving countless times the pully on the gear loosens &
needs to be tightened with a very small allan wrench. to gain access
to that you have to remove the cover on the back of the arm. This is a
trial & error adjustment so you will be working on this thing several
times, so wait until you get it right before reassembling the unit.
Good luck! you'll need it.
Gavin Miller
Gavin's Game Service, inc.
Schaumburg, IL 60193

I've checked all of the fuses and they all look good. I even replaced
them just in case. I'm going to reinspect the fuse holders to make
sure there are no crack connections, but I did not notice any when I
first looked at them.

The drop target seems to be working fine. It registers each time it's
hit and the game counts down the hits and lights the LOCK lights when
the appropriate number of htis is reached. One of the SITE-B letter
targets appears to be bad and only registers a hit every 10 or 15
times it's depressed. I'm going to replace it when I get my manual
and figure out the exact switch type to order.

The High Voltage interlock switch has been removed on this game and
the coils fire with the coin door open. I also ran my tests with the
door closed and got the same results.

The cable that comes through the playfield appears to run through a
relay board. Could the relay be the problem? I'm going to try and do
some more troubleshooting, so hopefully I will find the problem.

Thanks