Post by boilermanI'm not sure i understand you shooter rod issue, are you talking about
the hole shape or the surface being angled slightly?
There seems to be alot of confusion on the proper steps to use when
painting cabinets. At Big Time Cabinets we used (and/or experimented
with) a variety of coatings including lacquers, oil based enamels, and
latex. Some comments:
1) First and foremost - there is a general impression that the wood
will "suck up" the paint. This is true BUT the amount of paint that is
"sucked up" is minimal, because the porosity of the wood (usually
pine) is really not at all like a sponge. A base coat of paint that is
applied and dries is sufficient in itself to act as a "sealer/barrier"
to the final coat. No need for special primers, sander sealers, etc.
If you want to, you can, but there is no need - the wood is very
porous and will adhere the paint.
2) When using paints be sure that the product(s) you use are from the
same manufacturer, to disallow incompatibility problems.
3) Filling with primer to sand and get a smoother surface is really
only necessary if you are trying to get an appearance "beyond" factory
finish. This is especially true with stencil jobs (like Black Hole).
Primer is wasted otherwise.
4) My take on paints:
a) Lacquer - flows well, dries quickly, sands easily, repairs
easily, hard to find because of EPA regulations. Two coat minimum on a
wood surface (tends to be absorbed more because it is a very low
viscosity paint, and color consistency can be tricky).
b) Enamels - flow well, dry slower (get more "tacky"), not easy to
sand, easy to find. Don't get absorbed as quickly, best for ACCENT
colors, NOT base colors. Avoid oil-based enamels, they take FOREVER to
dry.
c) Latexes - flow well, dry reasonably fast, sandable only with a
"wet" method, readily available. Being water based, they do get
absorbed but again, two coats are usually adequate as the first coat
seals the wood. High viscosity, good color consistency, very safe,
water cleanup).
Good luck!
Chris