game power consumption?

[k***@netzero.net]

Does anyone know the formula to convert a pinball machines amp rating
into kilowatt hour usage in order to figure actual utility cost of
running a machine? Thanks, Kevin @ Strictly Pinball

[kirb]

Post by k***@netzero.net
Does anyone know the formula to convert a pinball machines amp rating
into kilowatt hour usage in order to figure actual utility cost of

The known average use for a pinball machine is 2.5 amps.

120 volts x 2.5 amps = 300 watts or 0.3 kilowatts

a game on for 24 hours would be 0.3 x 24 = 7.2 kilowatt hours.

Let's say you pay $0.08 per kilowatt hour, 7.2 x 0.08 = $.576 per day
or about $17 a month

Kirb

[b***@comcast.net]

Post by kirb

Post by k***@netzero.net
Does anyone know the formula to convert a pinball machines amp rating
into kilowatt hour usage in order to figure actual utility cost of

The known average use for a pinball machine is 2.5 amps.
120 volts x 2.5 amps = 300 watts or 0.3 kilowatts
a game on for 24 hours would be 0.3 x 24 = 7.2 kilowatt hours.
Let's say you pay $0.08 per kilowatt hour, 7.2 x 0.08 = $.576 per day
or about $17 a month
Kirb

That is a cheap rate for Power. Try living in Philly on the PECO grid
12-20Cent kilowatt hour depending on the time of day.

Bruce

[Ratsputin]

Post by b***@comcast.net

Post by kirb

Post by k***@netzero.net
Does anyone know the formula to convert a pinball machines amp rating
into kilowatt hour usage in order to figure actual utility cost of

The known average use for a pinball machine is 2.5 amps.
120 volts x 2.5 amps = 300 watts or 0.3 kilowatts
a game on for 24 hours would be 0.3 x 24 = 7.2 kilowatt hours.
Let's say you pay $0.08 per kilowatt hour, 7.2 x 0.08 = $.576 per day
or about $17 a month
Kirb

That is a cheap rate for Power. Try living in Philly on the PECO grid
12-20Cent kilowatt hour depending on the time of day.
Bruce- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

Holy crap! With electricity being privatized in Texas, our rates
improved quite a bit. They were certainly on the way to that sort of
thing. As of today, it looks like the cheapest rate I could get is .
107/KWH. For those of you in Texas not familiar, check out www.powertochoose.org.

Brett

[Mike Schudel]

Post by k***@netzero.net
Does anyone know the formula to convert a pinball machines amp rating
into kilowatt hour usage in order to figure actual utility cost of

[{(amps x volts) x (hours run time)}/1,000] x [$ cost/kwh]

[{(2.5A x 120V) x (1 hour)}/1,000] x [$0.08/kwh] --> $0.024/hour

this is about 2.5 cents/hour based on 8 cents/kwh.

[i***@comcast.net]

It's really not quite that much....

The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.

If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.

So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.

Ira

[Ratsputin]

Post by i***@comcast.net
It's really not quite that much....
The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.
If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.
So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.
Ira

OK - I'll put this to bed. I have a Kill-A-Watt watt meter. I
plugged my ToM into it and put it in attract mode. Draw fluctuated
between 200W and 250W.

WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.

Brett

[Pinball4Fun]

Post by Ratsputin

Post by i***@comcast.net
It's really not quite that much....
The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.
If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.
So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.
Ira

OK - I'll put this to bed. I have a Kill-A-Watt watt meter. I
plugged my ToM into it and put it in attract mode. Draw fluctuated
between 200W and 250W.
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.
Brett

So guys, I don't know anything about electricity, so how many games on
average can you comfortably plug into one dedicated outlet. Would, say
4, be a safe bet. However, do you have to be careful with some
games, Like LOTR, etc. that have a magnet that activates throughout
the game. Does that "suck" more wattage during play than in standby.
In that case, is there a risk playing all 4 games at once? Many
thanks. Interesting topic. Paul :)

[Mike Schudel]

Post by Pinball4Fun
So guys, I don't know anything about electricity, so how many games on
average can you comfortably plug into one dedicated outlet. Would, say
4, be a safe bet.

4 on 15A dedicated breaker, 6 on a 20A dedicated breaker. Probably could
add a few more but just being conservative without running up to the trip
threshold.

Post by Pinball4Fun
However, do you have to be careful with some
games, Like LOTR, etc. that have a magnet that activates throughout
the game. Does that "suck" more wattage during play than in standby.
In that case, is there a risk playing all 4 games at once?

Nope. You are on the Low Voltage (LV) side of the transformer with
everything in the game. The line side won't see much if any difference
between a magnet or flasher or motor.

I used a Fluke 87 RMS DMM with 1,000:1 clamp-on ammeter and set the meter to
record max/min/average current on the 120V line. In attract mode, normal
play and multiball on about 10 different games the average on all games was
2.5A.

[kirb]

Post by Ratsputin

Post by i***@comcast.net
It's really not quite that much....
The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.
If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.
So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.
Ira

OK - I'll put this to bed. I have a Kill-A-Watt watt meter. I
plugged my ToM into it and put it in attract mode. Draw fluctuated
between 200W and 250W.

Mike and I used Fluke meters. I put my meter in line, he used a clamp
on attachment. Some games draw more, some less.

Post by Ratsputin
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.

Michigan, baby.

Kirb

[GPE]

Post by Ratsputin

Post by i***@comcast.net
It's really not quite that much....
The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.
If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.
So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.
Ira

OK - I'll put this to bed. I have a Kill-A-Watt watt meter. I
plugged my ToM into it and put it in attract mode. Draw fluctuated
between 200W and 250W.
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.
Brett

That's pretty high.
I just got my electric bill for last month. Here in Omaha, the rate is
0.0661/KWh

-- Ed

[a***@hotmail.com]

You have to check your electric bill as electricity rates vary big
time. In Las Vegas they were 9.5¢/KwH then they jumped to almost 15¢

[newmantjn]

Post by a***@hotmail.com
You have to check your electric bill as electricity rates vary big
time. In Las Vegas they were 9.5¢/KwH then they jumped to almost 15¢

OK, so if you put together all the farmer math:
PHOF electric bill for the games alone:
.3kw*12hour/day*0.095$/KwH*200games*30day/month = $2052 for game
electricity. No wonder he is looking at LEDs. I thought that was odd
until I went through the numbers.

at $0.015 it would be $3240 - ouch!

[Mike Schudel]

Post by Ratsputin
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.

Sucks to live in Houston huh? :-P

Want to shovel snow off my driveway tomorrow? :-)

[Ratsputin]

Post by Mike Schudel

Post by Ratsputin
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.

Sucks to live in Houston huh? :-P
Want to shovel snow off my driveway tomorrow? :-)
--
Mike S.
Kalamazoo, MI
Gameroom:http://tinyurl.com/7lbv3
W C S Owner's List:http://tinyurl.com/8ua2n
M B Scoop Repair:http://tinyurl.com/9lfu
---------------------------------------------

LMAO! No thanks! I moved down here from Kansas City. I know what
it's like to shovel snow, and the most I ever saw in the 23 years I
lived there was about a foot. Besides, my worst gas bill has only
been $120, and that's 'cuz I keep the house on 76 when it gets below
about 60 outside. :) How much would your Michigan gas bill be if you
kept YOUR house on 76? :P

Of course, it's only fair to mention my electric bills during the
summer... My top bill was $780. Of course, a house built in 1980
with single-pane windows, plus a closet full of servers, plus a pool
contributes a lot to that. Factoring all of that out would put it
down to around $450-$500, which is common down here with a house this
size--even new construction.

Brett

[Fred Kemper]

Hah! .17 and .34 in Corpus Christi for me!

Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
=============================

Post by Ratsputin
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.
Brett

[Moparmaniac]

Here in SW Mo, our City Utilities is slightly under .07/KWH. I can't
imagine paying double for the size of our home for electricity.

Mike

Post by Ratsputin
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.
Brett

[s***@cue-inc.com]

Post by Moparmaniac
Here in SW Mo, our City Utilities is slightly under .07/KWH. I can't
imagine paying double for the size of our home for electricity.
Mike

Post by Ratsputin
WHERE ARE YOU THAT ELECTRICITY IS .08/KWH?!? Here in Houston, I'm
lucky to pay .135/KWH.
Brett- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

6.3 cents per KWH in SW Pennsyvania!

[kirb]

Post by i***@comcast.net
It's really not quite that much....
The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.
If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.
So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.
Ira

No, they won't be. Mike and I measured many different games and took
2.5 amps as an average between EMs and SS games for determining the
number of games on a circuit. We used the same number in these
examples.

Kirb

[b***@comcast.net]

Post by kirb

Post by i***@comcast.net
It's really not quite that much....
The rating on the back is pretty much the worst case rating, which assumes
all possible lights that can be on are on, along with the time averaged
impulse power needed for the various solenoids.
This only happens for a small percentage of the day, unless of course you
play continously.
If you put an AC ammeter in series with the line, while the machine is in
its quiescent state, you'll find the current draw is probably less than 1/2
of the rating.
So your electric costs will be less than the previous examples.
Ira

No, they won't be. Mike and I measured many different games and took
2.5 amps as an average between EMs and SS games for determining the
number of games on a circuit. We used the same number in these
examples.
Kirb

Well, in a earlier post, Dino measured his MB and it pulled 2.1 amps
just in attract mode. Then he put my LEDs through out the machine and
drop the pull to 0.67 amp in attract mode so that would allow for a
lot more pins on one circuit at that rating.

So let you all do the math on you coctail napkins.

Bruce